Aftermarket brake intallation?

[guitarman160]

I would like to have the hydraulic type brakes installed on my Jayco 1206 which operate from the weight of the trailer pushing against the tongue. Does anyone know where I can get this done? I am in the Memphis area. Don

[austinado16]

If you don't mind me asking, why not just install electric brakes?  I can't imagine the expense of a hydraulic system which uses a sliding tongue assembly to actuate the trailer's brake master cylinder, and all the hydraulic lines and other expensive components and work.........and then the maintenance and upkeep.

www.northerntool.com will give you an idea of how inexpensive electric brake assemblies and brake drums are, and www.etrailer.com has the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controllers for under $100.

[Bama Rambler]

Most any reputable trailer place can do it. I'd recommend getting one with either the "Free Backing" option or the "reverse solenoid lockout" option. It has a solenoid that hooks to your backup lights that allows you to back up without having to get out of the TV.

You can buy the parts and do it yourself if your handy at that sort of thing. Here's one website that has complete sets. Eastern Marine Hydraulic Brakes

[guitarman160]

I'm not against electric, just thought that hydraulic sounded simpler. I'm not sure I'm handy enough to do the job myself but do feel that there is enough "push" from the trailer to warrant looking into some brakes for it.

[Bama Rambler]

One of my RV's have electric brakes and the boat trailer has hydraulic surge brakes. They both work well. I think anything heavier than a couple thousand pounds should have electric brakes because of the push caused by the lag before the hydraulics kick in.

[fallsrider]

Here are some reasons for electric brakes I posted in another post...

With electric brakes, you can...
- easily test your brakes while rolling out of your driveway, in a parking lot, etc.
- easily test your brakes while going down the road by easing the manual lever over and feeling the pull
- apply the trailer brakes should sway set in
- easily adjust the brakes based on terrain, speed, etc. Many brake controllers have a easy-to-use boost feature
- there's no manual lock-out to engage to back up a hill
- they're cheaper to install

The only advantage to surge brakes I can think of is less maintenance and things to adjust.

[rabird]

Try the Yellow Pages or similar - trailer/hitch stores.

I'd want brakes on a 3400 lb trailer even though they are not required where I live.
Depending on how many different vehicles would be towing the trailer would determine the need for hydraulic. I like hydraulic on u-haul trailers, I don't need additional wiring for brakes.

The trailer brake 'laws' vary widely through out the land. (1000lb-4500lbs)

[blw2]

Interesting side note to these posts suggesting brakes on 3,000# & less campers...... my PUP has a GVWR right at 3,000#.  No brakes, and the factory axle isn't equiped to even acept them.  I couldn't put them on if I wanted to, short of swapping axles of course.
With my 1/2 ton pickup I can barely tell it's back there.  Years ago, I did some towing of a goose neck for work that must have been in the 8,000# range... I can't remember for sure, but I rember the GCVW was over 10,000#.  The trailer had brakes & I initially pulled it with a 3/4 ton pickup.  Even with brakes on all 4 trailer wheels, that rig was scary going down the road.  In a hard stop, you could really tell that the truck was being pushed.  When my boss finally lossned up the budget and bought a 1 ton duelly, it felt right... more like my PUP does behind my 1/2 ton now.
Now why would the factory put axles that don't have brake flanges on a PUP if brakes are required in many states?

[JimmyGator]

Interesting side note to these posts suggesting brakes on 3,000# & less campers...... my PUP has a GVWR right at 3,000#.  No brakes,

IIRC single axle trailers under 3,000lbs, in Florida at least, do not require brakes while duel axle trailers and over 3,000lbs do...  could be wrong, I was once... 

http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm

http://www.rockettrailers.com/TrailerBrakeLaws.htm

[rabird]

Now why would the factory put axles that don't have brake flanges on a PUP if brakes are required in many states?

In order to sell the trailer for less money and/or higher margin.

state brake


Some states have stopping distance rules and others actually base the law on the TV weight.

brakeman suggests the TV brakes are designed for up to the vehicles GVWR which is exceeded with almost any trailer.

DOT/commercial, less than 3000 lbs, brakes required if the trailer weighs 40% or more of TV weight.

[phil-l]

I installed electric brakes on my Starcraft PU, which didn't come with them. The project worked out well, and I highly recommend this upgrade.

I looked into hydraulic brakes - but it was going to require modifying the hitch coupler, and the total parts expense would have been higher. Adding electric brakes was mostly a matter of bolting them on and wiring them up in my case (my axle already had mounting flanges, which simplified things).

Take a look at the pictures from my project, linked below.

[HappiKampers!]

If you don't mind me asking, why not just install electric brakes?  I can't imagine the expense of a hydraulic system which uses a sliding tongue assembly to actuate the trailer's brake master cylinder, and all the hydraulic lines and other expensive components and work.........and then the maintenance and upkeep.

www.northerntool.com will give you an idea of how inexpensive electric brake assemblies and brake drums are, and www.etrailer.com has the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controllers for under $100.

Austinado - did your Starcraft come with brakes?

[austinado16]

Yes, mine was originally equipped with 7x1-1/4" electric brakes.  But the camper has a million miles on it, and at some point the big metal flanges that bolt the axle to the sides of the main frame cracked, broke and the axle tore loose.  Must have happened out on a camping trip because the solution was to weld angle iron flanges directly to the Dexter Torflex axle and then weld the axle and flanges to the main frame.  This of course melted all the wiring inside the left frame box, and melted the rubber in the Torflex axle..........and finally, they gutted the brakes so as not to put further load on the axle repair.

I used it like this for the past 3 seasons and had no issues, except, I got tired of the push during hard stops, and the slightly longer stopping distance.  On one section of 2 lane that we always drive, there are still stop lights about every 5mi.  So you get up to 65mph, and sure as heck, the lights turn yellow when you're too far away to make it, and too close to make a comfortable stop without throwing everyone into the dash. 

So just last month I had Dexter build a new axle, and then I installed new Dexter brake assemblies and new Dexter brake drums with bearings and seals.  It's amazing the difference it's made.  I'm really glad I took the time and spent the money.  I mean, it was fine before, but now it's really nice and normal.

Sorry for the long winded response.

To the OP, just install electric brakes.  It's very easy to do, and we can help. 

[HappiKampers!]

Yes, mine was originally equipped with 7x1-1/4" electric brakes...... 

Our Starcraft - no brakes, but wondered if that was a big deal or not?  I drive pretty conservatively with the PUP (more like I drive out of FEAR), but I am very afraid what will happen if I really have to stop the car w/ the PUP in a short distance...probably adds to that nice little tension headache I get everytime I tow it.

So, maybe we should look at brakes?

[AustinMN]

I'm not against electric, just thought that hydraulic sounded simpler. I'm not sure I'm handy enough to do the job myself but do feel that there is enough "push" from the trailer to warrant looking into some brakes for it.

If you can change a tire and splice a wire (and have an axle with the required backing plates), you can safely and properly install electric brakes.

Austin