Mattress question - how many inches thick??

[HappiKampers!]

We tried the air mattress w/ 2" mem foam topper and decided we just have to get new mattresses for our PUP (kept waking hovering milimeters above plywood).  I found a great website where we can order custom size foam mattresses in any depth we need.  Plus, they will have it the exact size we need: 70x66x5 in their premium firm mattress foam is under $300.  http://www.foamandupholstery.com/CustomCutFoam.htm

How many inches can you go and have the PUP close?  Things to consider is one 250+ person with one bad hip plus both of us have bad low backs - the foam has to hold up. 

Could we order a high density mattress of 5", add 1 1/2" egg crate (we already own) turned upside down and then add 2" memory foam topper (we already own)?  I believe that would give the support we need.

I read one thread where people bought the 4" mem foam topper from Overstock and use that, I'm afraid it will "pancake" out - so do we order 2?  Could we add the egg crate and topper we have?

I'm afraid our pup wouldn't close with an nearly 8" mattress plus sheets, a blanket and a couple of sleeping bags?

The "bottom' line - we can't bottom out.  Any suggestions?  How thick is your mattress?

[Baytoven]

We have a hard time closing the PUP with just a 4" foam mattress and a 2" memory foam topper, with bedding left on top of that.  YMMV.

If you're bottoming out, perhaps a layer of denser foam is necessary, rather than just more depth.

[Unstable Tripod]

I've done a lot of research on memory foam because I wanted to use it in the PUP and at home.  One important thing to know is that a good memory foam bed is not all memory foam.  Generally speaking, you should have 1.5 to 2 times as much non-memory foam as you do memory foam.  Also, the non-memory foam is usually in two or three layers of increasing firmness, not density.  For example, the package I bought for my bed at home has 4" of 5-lb density memory foam over two layers of polyurethane foam that are each 3" thick for a total bed thickness of 10".  Both of these non-memory foam layers have the same density (2 lbs.) but the top one has an ILD of 35 and the bottom has an ILD of 38.  (Density and firmness are not the same thing.  ILD is a measure of firmness: the bigger the number, the firmer the foam.)

Memory foam comes in several densities and most of the stuff sold in big box stores and on many websites is questionable.  A lot of it is only 3 lbs.  You really want 5 lb. density.  You don't need more than 4" of memory foam.  You're going to "sink through" it no matter what.  It is meant to conform to your body.  The other layers of non-memory foam are intended to absorb your body weight and provide the padding to keep you off the wood base.

In my PUP i originally went with 2" of 5 lb. memory foam over 2" of 2 lb., 35 ILD non-memory foam.  That does not match the formula I mentioned earlier but like you, I was concerned about closing the roof.  That combo was not enough; I could feel the wood just a bit.  So, I added 1" of 2 lb. ILD 38 non-memory foam on the bottom.  That is a total of 5" and it works.  I can close the roof but it's tight.

Closing the roof on the bed is very important to me because I do not want to make and unmake the bed.  I go on long trips where I make many stops, some for one, two or three nights and others for longer periods.  I make the bed before I leave and take it apart when I get back unless I've been out long enough to need to launder the bedding during the trip.  Unfortunately, I think your situation is going to require that you roll up and stash at least part of the bed and then put it together when you arrive on site.

Foamex is an American company that makes memory foam in several densities (Sensus is the 5 lb. density) and a non-memory foam called Reflex.  They don't use the smelly and sometimes toxic stuff foreign companies often use to make memory foam.  I'm very pleased with their products and recommend them.  This is a good place to buy Foamex products:

Sleepwarehouse

[HappiKampers!]

For example, the package I bought for my bed at home has 4" of 5-lb density memory foam over two layers of polyurethane foam that are each 3" thick for a total bed thickness of 10"....
In my PUP i originally went with 2" of 5 lb. memory foam over 2" of 2 lb., 35 ILD non-memory foam.  That does not match the formula I mentioned earlier but like you, I was concerned about closing the roof.  That combo was not enough; I could feel the wood just a bit.  So, I added 1" of 2 lb. ILD 38 non-memory foam on the bottom.  That is a total of 5" and it works.  I can close the roof but it's tight....
Foamex is an American company that makes memory foam in several densities (Sensus is the 5 lb. density) and a non-memory foam called Reflex.  They don't use the smelly and sometimes toxic stuff foreign companies often use to make memory foam.  I'm very pleased with their products and recommend them. 

Unstable - did you cut down the foam to shape?  I noticed the website sells standard sizes and my bunks are no where near standard.  One side would need a 48x66 and the other would be 70x66 which would leave about a 2" border all around the mattress for bedding.  If you cut it, did you use an electric carving knife?

I have 3 1/2" of foam now, 2" of mem foam from overstock and a 1 1/2" egg crate from Walmart.  Should I be looking a 5lb density in a 3"?  I could get rid of the egg crate and then go 4".  The last thing any camper wants is a sore back in the morning.

[Unstable Tripod]

Yes, I used a sharp scissors to cut the foam to the size I wanted.  In fact, I cut it 1" shorter than the bunk size in both dimensions to leave room for the bedding to wrap around the mattress and tuck underneath.

You need to figure out what you have now in order to determine if you want to use it or replace it.  You can figure out the density of the memory foam you have by weighing it (weigh yourself without it and then while holding it -- calculate the difference), measuring the dimensions and multiplying them to get the cubic foot volume and then dividing those numbers to get the pound per cubic foot number.  If your memory foam is only 2 or 3 pounds I'd scrap it and get the 5 pound stuff.  Three inches of 5-pound density is better than 4" of the 2 or 3 pound stuff.  If your stuff is 4 pounds you'll have to make a call.

As I mentioned earlier, the key is a good support system under the memory foam.  That means good quality polyurethane foam.  Again, you need to know the specs of that foam to be sure you are getting what you need  Regardless of the source you use, ask them about these specs.  If they don't know or won't tell, go elsewhere.  The ILD number is the key thing there.

Most people think you need more memory foam and less padding.  It's actually the other way around: more padding than memory foam.

Good luck.

[HappiKampers!]

Thanks Unstable_Tripod!  The place I found on-line, I threw an e-mail to their customer service department.  Their Luxury FIRM foam is ILD 44-54 and 2.6/2.8 in density.  The topper I got from Overstock is of the 2lb density.  That does not appear to be a good enough mix to make the firmness we need.

From your advice, looks like I really need to find a 5lb density foam in either 3" or 4" thickness and put my 2" topper on that for comfort.

[JimmyGator]

We have a hard time closing the PUP with just a 4" foam mattress and a 2" memory foam topper, with bedding left on top of that.  YMMV.

If you're bottoming out, perhaps a layer of denser foam is necessary, rather than just more depth.

We were unable to close the top with the 2" foam topper on top of the mattress.  It set off the CO detector before it was near closed... We have to roll the topper up and and it travels in the Suburban.

[Recumbentman]

How many inches can you go and have the PUP close?

You could do the old tissue box trick to determine your mattress space available. you simply place am empty tissue box on your bunk bed and lower the roof. then you open it up and see how much the box is crushed and now you know how much air space you have.

Good luck

[HappiKampers!]

How many inches can you go and have the PUP close?

You could do the old tissue box trick to determine your mattress space available. you simply place am empty tissue box on your bunk bed and lower the roof. then you open it up and see how much the box is crushed and now you know how much air space you have.

Good luck

GENIUS!

[CampingFamily1]

Where the tenting "folds together" when popping down, is where the roof has the problem closing.

We tried popping down with 4" stock foam +  2" memory foam and broke something while snapping the roof shut tightly.  Also the rollers were under a lot of stress pushing that heavy of a double mattress on the rollers back into the camper.

We don't mind folding the memory foam in half or in 4ths and sliding it on a top sheet onto our couch and onto the top of our swing level galley (sink).  It goes fast for us and it's just part of the process.  Takes maybe 1 minute longer for each side.  Once you get in a routine habit you don't think about it as taking long.    We've had no problems with the memory foam "cracking" from folding it but I know "Unstable_Tripod" reported he saw some literature once that it could crack or rip.  We just got back from a trip with temps in the 30s F, and the memory foam is stiff at those temps but it has not cracked.  We've been doing this for 3 years now.  The cold stiffness goes away when you lay on the memory foam and it heats up and becomes a great insulator.

I love those mummy style sleeping bag hoods for low temps.  I unzip the hood and wrap it around my head so it stays on when I roll over.  I look like a hillbilly or cousin Eddy from "A Christmas Vacation" movie, but who's to know!

[hvac1877]

We use the Coleman air bed. It is 8.5 thick and we put the pup mattress pad on top of it and i sleep like a baby. It is 11 inches thick once we go to bed. It holds both my wife and i easy. We are together over 500 lbs sleeping on it. Here is a link to what it looks like.
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=5998M330&categoryid=10080&brand=

[HappiKampers!]

We use the Coleman air bed. It is 8.5 thick and we put the pup mattress pad on top of it and i sleep like a baby. It is 11 inches thick once we go to bed. It holds both my wife and i easy. We are together over 500 lbs sleeping on it. Here is a link to what it looks like.
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/colemancom/detail.asp?product_id=5998M330&categoryid=10080&brand=

This is our current set-up but we lose air every night, we got the King 3-n-1 which allows both of us our own side.  If it wasn't for the air lose each night, I'd keep this set up.  I just want to go to sleep and not wake up with my hip on the plywood - hence, the foam shopping.

How thick are the mattresses that come standard in the PUP's?  I didn't even measure ours before I tossed them.

[Unstable Tripod]

Mine were 3.5" thick.

[CampingFamily1]

I just want to go to sleep and not wake up with my hip on the plywood

I know how you feel.  With our factory foam mattress on the camper (I think it is 4" thick) we felt the plywood on our hips and I had a sore back.  I weigh 160 lbs but I still felt the plywood.  It was WELL worth the time to find the memory foam.

If I were you I'd get at least 4" or 5" regular king size firm foam and add 2" of Serta Deluxe memory foam (from overstock.com) on a top layer.  Make sure the base layer of regular foam is stiff enough.  Our 2007 factory mattress was not so stiff as we had on our 2004 model, so that's why we added the memory foam.  The firmness of the regular base layer of foam makes a big difference.  If you save money and buy a realy soft foam it is not what you are looking for.

[Unstable Tripod]

I know Overstock.com is a popular place but I have to urge folks to exercise extreme caution when buying memory foam from them.  Having a well-known name like Serta does not guarantee quality, American-made memory foam.  (I'm not pushing American-made foam out of patriotism; I'm pushing it to avoid the poor quality, fraud and toxins associated with some foreign (especially Chinese) foams.  Companies like Serta, Simmons, Sealy and other "names" buy memory foam from different sources each time they need it.  They go with the cheapest bid.  (Like Dell does with computer components.)  There is no way to tell where it came from.

Another important point: read the descriptions very closely.  There are several foam toppers described as 3" or 4" thick but are only 3 or 4 pounds of density.  Four-pound density foam may or may not satisfy your needs but I'm certain 3-pound density foam will not.  Since Overstock.com is not consistent with the information in each memory foam product it offers you will probably have to call them to ask questions.  Once you do that, you will probably have to speak to several people before you find one who has any product knowledge at all.  I've found that most of their "customer assistance" folks are poorly trained order takers who know nothing about the products.